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For me, the start of fall has always seemed like a time of transition and a time of starting new, not unlike spring. I suppose it comes from starting a new school year as a child. The early morning chill in the air marked the beginning of a new year with new opportunities and new challenges, but also marked the end of a long summer and the “hunkering down” for the fall and winter ahead.
The same is true in the garden — it is a time of transition. After the hot summer days, it is time to plant again and time to start thinking about preparing the garden for fall and winter.
Now is a good time to plant trees and shrubs. This allows the plants to get established before spring, while they are focusing on root development instead of flowers and leaves. But, don’t fertilize existing trees or shrubs to allow them to go dormant before the winter months. Now is also a good time to begin thinking about planting spring bulbs – they will start showing up in the stores soon.
My garden activities this month include:
- Removing plants that died over the summer
- Overseeding the lawn, if necessary
- Keeping weeds and slugs under control
- Removing fading annuals and replacing them with winter pansies, kale and fall mums
- Planting perennials. Many nurseries have perennials on sale this time of year. They may not look so hot right now, but next spring, they’ll look great in the garden.
Selecting plants for your garden can seem like a daunting task, but if you can dress yourself in the morning (and most of us can), then you can choose plants.
Good plant selection starts with the basics, just like your wardrobe. Certain plants should be the “basic black pants” of your yard. They provide the core foundation on which you’ll add the accessories (deciduous shrubs, perennials and annuals). Other than basic water and soil improvements, they require relatively little attention, especially once established. Evergreens fill this role in your garden by giving year-around texture and structure.
My “basic black pants” or garden favorites are:
Rhododendrons
These shouldn’t be the focus of your yard unless you truly want a rhody garden. Use them as a backdrop for other plants by placing them toward the back of your garden, and select varieties that bloom at different times.
Viburnum
Viburnum Davidii is widely used in the Pacific Northwest. It is tolerant of various soil conditions and the deep green leaves provide texture and solid form in your garden. Paired with Black Mondo grass and purple Salvia, it’s a great border plan for up against a wall, deck or porch. It is deer-resistant and relatively free from pests.
Rainbow Leucothoe
The variegated foliage with hints of pink, green, light yellow and bronze give year-round interest and, when placed in front of darker green, taller plants, provide a great contrast that brightens darker areas of the yard. Make sure they are not in full sun and plant in an area where the soil stays moist. Prune for shape and size, cutting larger branches back to the ground.
Sword Fern
These offer texture and color all year long. A small grouping of three or five ferns along a dry river bed or rock garden area can add a nice accent to a shady Japanese garden area. A larger grouping creates the look of your own private woodland park. Cut old fronds with a hedge trimmer before new growth emerges in the spring to keep them looking their best.
Osmanthus Delavayi
This gracefully-arching evergreen can grow up to 8 feet tall, but here in the Northwest, mine typically range from 3 to 5 feet. They have small, finely textured dark glossy leaves. Small white flowers come out in the spring. Likes sun to partial shade, and is very drought-tolerant.
Pieris ‘Prelude’
‘Prelude’ is a compact shrub that typically matures to only 1-2’ tall. Its lily-of-the-valley-like white flowers come out in early spring and attract early bees. The new growth emerges light green/pink, then darkens. Part-shade to sun, in humus-rich soil. Hardy, unless a bear sits in the middle of one while he eats bird seed out of your bird feeder.
Evergreen Huckleberry
Beautiful dark-green foliage with blue/black berries make this one of my favorites. They will grow 8’ – 10’ in the shade, and 4’ – 6’ in the sun. For the best berries, plant in partial sun.
If you have a large yard that can handle the scale of tall evergreens, try Leyland Cypress, Douglas Fir, Western Hemlock , Red Cedar or Grand Firs.
Next: Accessorizing with Deciduous Shrubs and Perennials
I discovered this recently.
It was only this year that our “yard” became a “garden”, with color, textures and forms that compliment each other, outside rooms, plants blooming in each season, and birds and bees galore.
While we want to welcome wildlife into our garden, we also wanted find some deer and rabbit resistant plants. The Washington State Dept of Fisheries and Wildlife has helpful links listing the plants that deer and rabbits love if you want to attract them, as well as those that are deer or rabbit resistant to help keep your garden looking like a garden. Keep in mind that “resistant” means the plants might get nibbled on, but typically won’t be eaten to the ground.
I carefully read the list, then cross-referenced the two, resulting in a master list of plants that were deer and bunny resistance …. or should have been anyway. But deer and rabbits can’t read.
We woke up one morning this weekend, looked outside, and discovered that all of the new growth had been eaten off the Spring Bouquet viburnum. Those soft, tender leaves emerging after the blooms faded were just too tempting, and apparently too tasty, for the deer to ignore. The heucheras and tiarellas were nothing but stubs, and the sedums…well…. we couldn’t see dem anymore.
Some of the plants really do seem to be deer and bunny resistant. We’ve had good luck with:
- Peony
- Astilbe
- Bugbane
- Lady’s Mantle (deer will nibble on the flowers)
- Beauty Berry
- Big Blue Lily Turf Liriope Muscari
- Pieris (most varieties)
- Wiegelia
- Cotoneaster
- Spirea
- Osmanthus delavayi
- Hellebores
- Hebes
- Lavendar and other strongly scented plants
- Viburnum (except for Spring Bouquet – new growth got eaten)
- Abelia (most varieties)
- Rainbow Leucothoe
- Himalayan Sweet Box Sarcococca Ruscifolia
We’ve also found that sprays like “Liquid Fence” and ‘Plantskyydd” work well, and you’ll typically only need to spray until the new growth toughens up a bit. Be sure to stand upwind, and spray downwind, or you’ll smell like the spray for awhile. Also, switch back and forth between products every now and then. The deer get used to the smell of one product, so using another, then going back to the first, helps keep the deer away from those plants.
As far as those lists of deer and rabbit resistant plants, I’m considering printing them out and posting them around the yard. That way, if the deer and bunnies to learn to read, they’ll have something to peruse while they munch the plants.
If you’re an avid gardener, you probably already have your favorite tools. My “can’t live without” garden essentials are below. They also make great gifts for the gardener your circle of family and friends.
Hori Hori (Japanse Knife)
This is becoming my second favorite garden tool. A combination of a garden knife and trowel, this tool serves many purposes in the yard. It’s great for cutting away underground roots, weeding, and, of course digging. A must for anyone who propogates plants through root division. OXO makes a great one, but there are many good brands available. Just make sure it’s sturdy and feels good in your hand.
Felco #2 or #5 Pruners
This is my favorite garden tool. I’d gone through dozens of pruners before I bought my Felco #2 several years ago. They’ve stayed sharp and give a perfect cut. The #2s are around $40, and the #5s in the $75 – $80 range, but are a bit more substantial. Don’t forget a carrier with a pocket clamp. It’s easy to leave pruners laying around.
Hand weeder
Be sure to get one with the single, thin. sharp blade. These are wonderful for both cutting under weeds and digging out the deeper roots. We have a lot of moss in our area, and it removes the moss without taking the dirt along with it.
Muck Garden Shoes
These waterproof gardening shoes are as comfortable as they are practical. I’ve tried many different kinds of garden clogs and boots, and none have been as versitile as these. They keep your feet dry in damp conditions, and when the get muddy, just hose them off and let them dry. They’ll be good as new for the next time. http://www.muckbootcompany.com/women/lawn-garden/Pages/TheDailyShoe.aspx
Bracken Creek Garden Tote
Finally, a garden tote made for gardeners. The Bracken Creek Garden Tote has 6 pockets for helping you keep track of your garden tools. My favorite feature: drainage holds at the bottom of the bag keep it free of dirt and let excess water drain out. Padded handles make it easy to carry.
Foxgloves Gardening Gloves
Made out of nylon for durability and lycra spandex for stretch, these are a great all-purpose garden glove. They are great for weeding, pruning, planting and any other tasks that require easy movement of your fingers. They are machine washable and can be dried on a line or in the dryer on low heat. Thorns will poke through, but you can wear these under thicker gloves for added protection.
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